Frequently Asked Questions
How do spray foam kits work?
Spray foam kits consist of two prepressurized tanks that contain an A component and a B component. When the trigger on the gun is pulled, the components flow through the hoses and gun, and into a mixing nozzle. This is where the two components mix, and if they are on an even one to one ratio, create good foam. It’s important to know though, that except for Foam it Green kits, the two components are both yellow making it difficult to know you got it right until sometimes it’s too late. But with Foam it Green, we dye the B component blue so when it mixes with the yellow A component, you’ll know everything is working as it should because the foam will be a light green color. Remember, green means go! Contact Foam it Green today.
Why choose spray foam?
Closed cell spray foam has many advantages over older insulation types like fiberglass and cellulose. It boasts the highest R value per inch, and its tightly packed cells stop both air AND moisture. Energy loss due to air movement causes discomfort and higher heating and cooling costs. And moisture is a very needed ingredient for mold growth.
In addition to taking care of those issues, the high density nature of closed cell foam also deters rodents and insects and is much faster and easier to apply.
Need to know more? Reach out to Foam it Green today!
Why choose Foam it Green?
At Foam it Green, we want to maximize your ability to get amazing results. To aid in achieving this goal, we include ten mixing nozzles per kit, and our gun is the only one in the business with a double ear clip design to make sure they stay on during spray. Our foam is ASTM G twenty one anti microbial and we include temperature strips on the tanks as well. Foam it Green team members are specially trained in building science and the foam’s properties and applications to best be able to answer any questions you might have. But most importantly perhaps is our color indicator foam that turns green to let you know you have the right mix the whole way through. Remember, with Foam it Green, Green means go.
How do I spray overhead?
As always, target a wet foam application thickness of one third of an inch as that will expand to one inch cured. It’s also recommended to leave off the fan spray tip and simply use the black mixing nozzle alone. Get your hand a bit closer when pointing up, and use a lighter trigger pull so you don’t “bounce” the foam off the surface. When spraying upwards, you’ll have more waste because the foam is fighting gravity so we recommend building in a bit more waste when calculating how much foam you’ll need.
For projects where it is difficult to move and reposition, make sure you are set up well before spraying. Pulling the hoses to move a tank can cause them to break, and tipping a tank during spray can cause a quick loss of pressure. Need more help? Contact Foam it Green today!
What’s the best spray technique?
Foam requires two components to mix on an even one to one ratio to rise and cure to the correct density. When they react with each other, they create an exothermic reaction to help the foam expand and harden. The temperature that the foam reaches can be one hundred forty degrees Fahrenheit to achieve this. This is also why surface temperature and spray thickness are so important. A surface too cold can rob the reaction of the heat it needs, and conversely, too warm a surface can cause premature curing. Your wet application thickness should be one third of an inch so that enough component comes together to create the right amount of heat to expand to one inch. Too thin and it won’t rise, and too thick can make it cure too fast. Need more help? Contact Foam it Green today!
How do I use slow rise foam?
In a standard wall, holes can be made between each set of studs at three feet, six feet, and then as close to the top of the wall as possible. Slow rise foam can only be used in an empty, vertical wall. Ceiling or floor applications are not recommended. Whatever tubing you decide to purchase to attach to the nozzles should be cut no longer than three feet and ideally have an inner diameter of five sixteenths. There is no one-size-fits-all approach to how long to hold the trigger when filling a wall cavity, so there will be some trial and error. “Splinting” the tubing can be helpful to make sure you are pointing the foam downward in the cavity, and it’s highly recommended to use clear tubing, so you can see the foam is green going into the wall. Need a more detailed project guide? Contact Foam it Green!
Why should I spray my rim joists?
According to energystar.gov, air leakage accounts for twenty five to forty percent of the energy used for heating and cooling. Air leakage also reduces the effectiveness of other energy- efficiency measures such as other forms of insulation and high performance windows. So as you can see, air sealing results in lower energy bills and better comfort. Rim joist bays, where the floor in a home sits on top of the foundation, have many areas for this air leakage to occur. Closed cell Foam it Green creates an air tight seal at just one inch, along with a high R value of almost seven per inch. Even better, most homes’ rim joists can be sprayed with just our smallest kit. Ready to learn more? Contact Foam it Green today!
How should I spray my attic?
With an attic, either the floor or the underside of the roof can be sprayed. If you want to temperature control your attic, convert it to living space, or store items in it that are temperature sensitive, then spraying the underside of the roof is the way to go. If you are simply trying to better insulate the living area below the attic floor, then it makes sense to put your airtight “lid” closer to it, so you aren’t paying to heat or cool all of that unused attic volume. Don’t spray directly into the soffit vents. Closed cell foam doesn’t need the ventilation that usually exists for less dense materials to evaporate out moisture they collect. When spraying the floor of the attic, keep your soffit vents open and free of foam or other forms of insulation. Need a more detailed project guide? Contact Foam it Green!
What does “low GWP” mean?
GWP stands for Global Warming Potential, a term developed to measure the impact of different gases on the Earth’s warming. It’s a rating system that compares a specific gas’ ability to absorb energy over time to that of carbon dioxide. For example, methane has a GWP of between twenty eight and thirty six. Low GWP then, is an effort to utilize gases in various products that have lower GWP ratings and, in turn, have a lower potential to warm the Earth. Components in spray foam tanks need to be expelled with force so they can be applied to a surface as they mix. The gas used in spray foam kits that are not low GWP has a rating of one thousand four hundred and thirty. Now, in Foam it Green’s low GWP formula, this rating has dropped to under ten! Ready to learn more? Contact Foam it Green today!
Why would I spray metal ducts?
Heating and cooling ducts are intended to move air of a certain temperature from one area to another. With air leakage, some of this energy-costing temperature-controlled air doesn’t make it to its final destination. Even worse, temperature outside the ducts can penetrate into them causing mechanical systems to work harder to control comfort. Many people experience their ducts sweating or condensing as warm and cool air meet on the metal surface of the ducts. Foam it Green bonds to metal and stops condensation at just a single inch. Ready to learn more? Contact Foam it Green today!
Why should I spray a metal building?
Insulating a metal building, work shop, or pole barn is one of the most common projects tackled by Foam it Green. Metal surfaces are prone to condensation, so if the primary reason you are insulating is to simply stop that condensation from forming, then one inch of closed cell Foam it Green is all you need. However, if you’re looking to insulate for heating and cooling purposes, we generally recommend two inches of foam for the walls and three inches for the roof. This will give you sufficient R value to keep that expensive temperature-controlled air inside and keep you comfortable. Additionally, many metal buildings and pole barns don’t have more traditional sixteen on center framing that rolled batt insulation would fit. Spray foam fits wherever you spray it! Need a more detailed project guide? Contact Foam it Green!
How do I fix a gun clog?
The best way to fix a gun clog is by avoiding one in the first place. This is best achieved by making sure you are changing out the mixing nozzle any time you are stopping for thirty seconds or longer. Trying to spray into a tip that’s already full of cured foam can make the components back up into the gun. If you are not going to fully use a spray foam kit until it’s empty, then following proper shut down procedure is important to making sure the gun will work when you come back to it. Simply turn off the tanks leaving the hoses attached, pop off the mixing nozzle and wipe the face of the gun clean. Then, cover the face of the gun with a generous amount of petroleum jelly, which we include with every kit. Need some technical help? Reach out to Foam it Green today!
Why is surface temperature important?
Foam it Green should always be applied to a material with a surface temperature that is between sixty five and eighty five degrees Fahrenheit, and applied at a wet thickness of one third of an inch in a single pass. The combination of these factors will allow the two components to create the right amount of heat as they combine to rise to their fullest. When a surface is too cold, it robs the chemical reaction of the heat it needs to expand, and may even pull away from the material you are spraying. If the surface is too hot, it will cause the foam to cure too fast before it fully expands. The great news is that you can usually control surface temperature temporarily for when you need to spray. Ready to learn more? Contact Foam it Green today!
What is the difference between open and closed cell foam?
Closed cell foam, at about two pounds per cubic foot, is more dense than open cell foam which is typically about one half pound per cubic foot. This higher density makes closed cell foam ideal for applications in which moisture will be a concern. It also has a much higher R value per inch at approximately seven, compared to open cell’s at about four. Tightly packed closed cells create a vapor retarder to stop moisture penetration which is important in projects like insulating walls, crawlspaces, and basements. The vast majority of vapor transmission occurs through air flow, and not diffusion, which simply means “physically moving through a solid”. The less dense, more sponge-like nature of open cell foam is a better choice for projects that are temperature controlled on both sides like sound-deadening between floors. Have a project to discuss? Contact Foam it Green today!
Why is tank temperature important?
Tanks need to expel their components at the same rate to create good foam. While there is pressure in each tank, the speed at which the components are forced out is dictated by the temperature of the materials inside. Kits stored in a cool environment should be brought up to operating temperature in a warmer area, shaking them periodically to redistribute the internal temperature. Components can be used between sixty five and eighty five degrees Fahrenheit but best results occur at seventy five. Kits that are too cold or too warm spray off ratio. Foam it Green makes it easy to see that you’re getting the right mix the whole way through. When the blue and yellow components are sprayed evenly, your foam will spray out light green in color, taking out the guesswork and worry that comes with kits with two yellow components. Have questions? Contact Foam it Green!
What are the different densities of foam?
Low density foam is commonly referred to as open cell. Its structure is such that the cells are less tightly packed and not all fully closed which makes this density less ideal for applications that encounter moisture. Open cell foam is “spongier” than the others which makes is a good choice for sound deadening between two temperature controlled areas. Standard density foam is the most commonly used type amongst most projects. That’s because it is “closed cell” which means it will stop air, stop moisture, and deliver a high R value of approximately seven per inch. High density foam is usually referred to exactly as “high density” foam. It’s also closed cell, but even more tightly packed so that it can withstand direct contact with water and foot traffic. It’s intended for surfaces going underground or outside of a building. Which one is best for you? Contact Foam it Green!
What comes with a Foam it Green kit?
Each Foam it Green kit comes with two pre-pressurized tanks containing the A and B components along with a gun and hose assembly. The hose length on the larger kits like our 602 is fifteen feet, and on the smaller systems like the 202 they’re ten feet. In addition, each kit will come with its own set of ten mixing nozzles and three fan spray tips. We also include a wrench to attach the hoses to the tanks as well as a packet of petroleum jelly. Each spray foam system is designed to work with its own, brand new, gun and hose assembly, so we do not send out tanks alone. Lastly, only with Foam it Green will you get green indicator foam to let you know you have the right mix the whole way through. Ready to order? Contact Foam it Green today!
What is recommended Personal Protective Equipment?
All Foam it Green spray foam systems are low-pressure products, with a dispensed pressure of below two hundred fifty PSI, and should be used under proper health and safety conditions. The recommended personal protective equipment, or PPE, for Foam it Green systems includes chemical resistant safety goggles, chemical resistant protective clothing to ensure there is no exposed skin, like a Tyvek suit, and nitrile gloves. A National Institute of Safety and Health approved respirator should also be worn. There are many respirator options and the correct one may be determined based on project conditions, like ventilation. Some options include half-mask respirators with organic vapor cartridges and particulate filters like the P100. Respirators should be fit tested, and cartridges or filters should be changed in accordance to a regular schedule. Full-mask and Powered Air Purifying Respirators can also be used. Ready to learn more? Contact Foam it Green today!
How long will delivery take?
At Foam it Green, we take great pride in being one of the only spray foam kit companies that is rarely out of stock. We ship out most orders by the end of the next day following your order. From there, shipping out of the Midwest, most orders are delivered in about a week. Because the product is heavy and pre-pressurized, it can’t be expedited or air freighted, and delivery dates are not guaranteed. Tracking numbers are always emailed soon after your order ships, and the couriers we use will call to make a delivery appointment. So always be sure to provide accurate contact information when you place your order. Need to get some foam on the road? Contact Foam it Green today!
Can I pick up locally?
Foam it Green is based in the Midwest but our facility is not set up for customer pickups as the product is considered class sixty HAZMAT which has particular packing and shipping rules. You won’t find our kits available at local retailers mostly because our team here is best suited to help you with technical questions. Anyone you speak to at Foam it Green has extensive project and product knowledge, as well as training in building science. Additionally, keep in mind that a local reseller would pay the same price you do and then pass along the freight charge as well as mark up the cost. Buying directly from us is truly the best way to go, and delivery usually takes about a week or less. Ready to order? Contact Foam it Green today!
How much does a kit cover?
The number of a Foam it Green kit corresponds to how many squared feet of cured foam, one inch thick, the system can give you if used under ideal conditions and in accordance with the instructions. So, the 602 kit can give you as much as six hundred squared feet at one inch, three hundred squared feet at two inches, and you guessed it, two hundred squared feet at three inches, and so on. Spraying too thin, too thick, or to a surface that isn’t within the acceptable temperature range can reduce coverage. We always recommend calculating in a bit of waste before purchasing, particularly if this is your first time using Foam it Green, or in projects with areas that are difficult to reach or overhead. Need some extra tips on how to get the most out of your kit? Contact Foam it Green today!
How do I shutdown a kit to use it again later?
It’s always best to use up a spray foam kit in its entirety when first sprayed if possible. If not, your system should be good for thirty days from first use as long as it’s shut down properly. Make sure to remove the used mixing nozzle and discard it. Coat the face of the gun with a generous amount of petroleum jelly, and add a dab of the petroleum jelly to the base of the trigger as well to prevent chemicals from crystallizing there. Apply petroleum jelly to the valve stems of the tanks and close the valves. Always keep the boxes in the upright position, and leave the hose assembly attached to the tanks without draining the lines. These steps should prevent air from getting inside the system and clogging it, and they should be repeated every seven days. Got more questions? Contact Foam it Green today!
Can I cut or paint the foam?
Cured Foam it Green is easy to cut with any serrated edge. We usually don’t recommend spraying so much foam that it expands out past your studs though, because generally speaking, you don’t need that much to get amazing results. Plus, whatever you are cutting off ends up being wasted. As you already know, Foam it Green turns a light sea foam green to let you know it’s mixing properly, but once your spray is finished, you’re welcome to paint the foam any color you like. Most customers have great success with latex based paints after priming. Need to know more? Contact Foam it Green today!
What will the foam stick to?
Properly applied Foam it Green will bond to any surface that is not wet, oily, or excessively dirty as long as the surface temperature is between sixty five and eighty five degrees Fahrenheit at the time of application. Seventy five degrees on the surface is ideal for maximum adhesion and expansion. Sometimes the foam can have a little difficulty adhering to slick surfaces like plastics. But for things like roof decking, plywood, ductwork, and even pre-existing foam board, Foam it Green will have no trouble sticking and giving you amazing results. Need to know more? Contact Foam it Green today!
Can you ship this to me in cold weather?
At Foam it Green we choose to work with couriers who are going to get your kits to you quickly and safely. That means we only work with organizations who know how to treat pressurized materials along the way so that you end up receiving working kits, as the warranty promises. In the unlikely event temperatures along the way would be too cold to the point where we are not confident they’d make it in perfect working order, then we would hold the shipment until an appropriate window opens. At the end of the day, your order may arrive colder than it should be for spraying, but nothing would happen to the components or materials that would impact its performance. As always, just warm up the tanks to proper operating temperature before use. Need to know more? Contact Foam it Green today!
Troubleshooting the Spray Gun
To do this, remove the nozzle from the gun and point the gun into a waste container. Pull the trigger and observe the chemical streams. You should see two chemical streams crossing over each other and flowing at equal velocity.
Know that the “A” component is light brown in color and the “B” component is blue.
If you see more “A” chemical flowing than “B” chemical, your foam is probably darker in color and may have a crunchy, glassy surface. First check the temperature strip – is the chemical cold? Cold chemicals will result in foam that is “A” component rich. If the temperature strip indicator is in the blue section, warm the tanks, shake them vigorously, and check the chemical flow again.
If the temperature strip indicates the mid-green section, meaning the temperature is right for dispensing, then check the “B” component tank. Confirm it is not empty and that the valve is turned all the way on.
If all of these things seem to be right, contact us for further action.
If you see more “B” component than “A” component, your foam is probably bluer in color with a spongy surface texture. First check the temperature sensing strip – is it indicating in the red section? Chemicals that are too warm often result in foam that is “B” component rich. Cool the chemicals, shake the tanks vigorously and check the chemical flow again.
If the temperature seems right, check the “A” component tank. Confirm that it is not empty and that the valve is turned all the way on.
If all of these things seem to be right, contact us for further action.
In very extreme cases, you may dispense foam that seems to be rising, then it “melts” or reverts to a liquid after a short period of time. This would indicate that there is no “A” component flow at all.
When was the last time you used the system? We strongly recommend that the gun is dispensed a minimum of once every week, more often in humid climates. Failure to do so will result in a blockage on the “A” component side of the gun.
If there is no chemical flow, the gun/hose assembly will need to be replaced. Contact us for more information. If you do not seem to be getting acceptable flow from both components, this would indicate a lack of pressure. The only known cause for both tanks to lose pressure is if the kit was used while lying on its side. The chemical tanks are similar to aerosol cans. If you dispense foam while they are on their side, the propellant escapes through the hose and the pressure is lost. There is no remedy for this. You can only prevent this from happening by keeping the systems in their upright position during use.
Troubleshooting for Temperature
First and most important is the chemical temperature. If the chemical temperature is not right, you will not dispense good quality foam.
Ideal chemical temperature is between 65° F and 90° F. Foam-it-Green is equipped with a temperature sensing strip that helps you determine that the chemical temperature is within the ideal range.
The temperature sensing strip shows three colors – blue indicating that the chemicals are too cold, red indicating that the chemicals are too warm and green indicating that the chemicals are within the ideal temperature range. Perfect temperature will indicate in the center of the green indicator.
Good quality foam is light green in color. It will set up to be tack free in 30 to 45 seconds. After approximately 20 minutes, it will be firm to the touch with a consistent skin.
If the chemicals are too cold, you are probably dispensing foam that is “A” component rich. It will be darker in color and may have a crunchy, glassy surface texture. Warm them up, shake the tanks vigorously and check the chemical flow from the face of the gun.
If the chemicals are too warm, you are probably dispensing foam that is “B” component rich. It will be bluer in color and have a spongy surface texture. Cool them down, shake the tanks vigorously and check the chemical flow from the face of the gun.
The second temperature consideration is that of the surface temperature. This is important to ensure the optimum yield and in some cases, good adhesion.
Ideal surface temperature is between 65° F and 90° F.
Surfaces that are colder will result in reduced yield. This is caused by the cold surface extracting the heat from the exothermic reaction resulting in a reduced rise, thus a reduced yield. If the surface is 40° or colder, the exotherm may also cause condensation, which would be like spraying foam onto a wet surface, therefore, the foam may not adhere to the surface. The only way to determine if this will happen is to do a test patch. If the foam sticks to the cold surface, spray the least thickness possible to simply raise the surface temperature to a level that would be closer to ideal temperatures. Allow that layer to cure. Then add the desired thickness to achieve your R-factor.
Surfaces that are too warm may result in the foam curing too fast. This would also result in a reduced yield because the foam would not have enough time to reach the full rise before a tack-free state. In addition, extreme cases may result in loss of adhesion because the foam would cure so fast it could not develop a bond to the surface before it hardened.
Troubleshooting Foam Attributes
If The Foam Is Soft
Foam that dispenses soft is usually also green in color. This is an indication that you dispensed more “B” component than “A” component
If the Foam is Brittle or Crunchy
Foam that has a crunchy or friable surface texture will most likely be darker in color that it should be. This is an indication that you are dispensing more “A” chemicals than “B” chemicals. Click on Checking the Gun for Proper Function for procedures to confirm this and find out how to remedy the situation.
Foam is Very Blue In Color
Foam that is very blue in color will also have a soft surface texture. In extreme cases, it may appear to liquefy or melt shortly after it is dispensed. This is an indication that you have dispensed more “B” chemical than “A” chemical, or in those extreme cases, no “A” chemical at all. Click on Checking the Gun for Proper Function for procedures to determine that this is the case, and how to remedy the situation.
Foam is Very Dark in Color
Foam that is darker in color usually also has a crunchy or friable surface texture. This is an indication that you are dispensing more “A” component than “B” component. Click on Checking the Gun for Proper Function for procedures to confirm this and find out how to remedy the situation.
Troubleshooting Chemical Dispersal
To assist you in this section, identify the “A” component as being the darker brown liquid and the “B” component as being blue.
Most often when there is only one chemical coming out of the gun, it will be the “B” component or blue chemical. This is usually caused by not using the gun on a regular basis, causing blocking on one side of the gun.
The “A” component is very sensitive to humidity. When exposed (and it can be exposed through the hoses), it forms small dark crystal that form on the inner side of the hoses or in the small spaces between the inner workings of the dispensing gun. If you use the gun a MINIMUM of once per week (even more often in humid climates), the constant flow of chemical will eliminate these crystals from forming. If the gun and hose assembly sits for too long, these crystals form, and when you pull the trigger the next time, they either create a blockage or completely freeze up the inner works.
To prevent this from happening, USE THE GUN AT LEAST ONCE PER WEEK (more often in humid climates).
To fix the problem, you will need to purchase a new gun and hose assembly. Cleanup of “B” component can be accomplished using soap and water, however, get it while it is still in the liquid state.
If only “A” component is coming out, and this very rarely happens, something has occurred to freeze up the “B” component side of the gun. Most likely, the gun and hose assembly had been sitting much too long between applications. You will need to purchase a new gun and hose assembly and install it on the kit.
Cleanup of “A” component is very tricky. DO NOT USE WATER TO CLEAN UP THE “A” COMPONENT CHEMICAL. Be sure to wear nitril or butyl rubber gloves and proper respiratory equipment. For a small amount of chemical, saturate a rag with dish soap and wipe it up. Be sure to do this while the chemical is still liquid. And be aware that there will most likely be a stain. For larger amounts of chemical, refer to the Safety Data Sheet, Section 6 for instructions to deal with a chemical spill.
To be sure that both chemicals are dispensing from the gun PRIOR to your application, always do a test shot into a waste container prior to actually dispensing the foam. If the resulting shot looks suspicious, follow the procedure in